I think retinoid products are fantastic, both as an actual medication for acne and for it's skin benefiting properties. However, retinoids can have some pretty gross and nasty side effects if used incorrectly or with the wrong skincare products, and sometimes it is a bit confusing what to use with them and what not to use with them!
After using retinoids for the best part of four years to help with my acne, I have had my disasters and have found out through trial and error what works with them, and what doesn't work with them. For your information, I am on Retin-A 0.0025% (I have a blogpost here all about the little gem).
I thought it would be a good idea for me to impart what knowledge I have on the area, so here are a few tips and suggestions for those who are just starting out or are already on retinoids and are a bit confused about what they should and shouldn't do.
1) Always wear an SPF in the day. The top layer of your skin is being peeled off, making your skin more sensitive to sunlight. Find a good SPF product which protects against both UVA and UVB rays, since both are harmful. There are plenty of good suncreams out there, you just need to find one which suits your skin type and your preference! Please, protect your skin from the sun.
2) Don't use exfoliating products/mitts/scrubs/Clarisonics whilst you're using retinoids. Especially with those who are using Retin-A, the peeling effect you get can be pretty gross and can mess up a makeup look completely. Do not be tempted to scrub this peeling skin away, because this peeling skin is attached to loose skin which will shed itself naturally. If you scrub at it, you will take all the skin off your face and will end up with a very sore and oozy face. Leave all exfoliating till at least three days after the last night/day of retinoid application.
3) Do not use any harsh astringent or products containing other chemical exfoliants. This will further irritate your skin, and, from my own experience, they will sting your skin like absolute hell. Not worth it! Treat your skin gently and with kindness and your skin will recover easier and you'll have less 'downtime'.
4) Moisturise, moisturise, and moisturise. You need to find an intensive moisturiser, which helps the skins healing process. Be warned, there are some cream which will sting, and there is no saying which ones will and which ones don't. It is trial and error, but stick to creams which are designed for those with extremely dry and sensitive skins, because these are less likely to contain products which are harsh to skin. Look for products designed for extremely senstive/allergic/dry or cracked skin, these products should contain less nasty harsh stuff and more of the gentle, good stuff.
5) Deal with it. Retinoids have side effects. It is important to know that from the very beginning. And in my experience, every application proves a different result skin-wise. One week you might use it and skin might peel with minimal redness and then heal quickly, leaving skin radiant and beautiful in no time, whilst other times your skin might peel leaving sore-looking red patches all over your face, and downtime feels like forever. Yes, it's a bummer, but think about the result of your skin after using retinoids, and all those days of walking around feeling dejected about the red patches on your skin will be worth it, especially from an acne-front. Focus on the long term.
6) Don't over-use them. I only need a couple of nights application of Retin-A to get my skin to peel, any more than that then my skin gets increasingly sore and dry and almost impossible to normalise. After these two nights, I moisturise my skin like hell to minimise any dryness and to help my skin to heal. Overusing the retinoid will not make it more effective, it will just worsen the side effects!
7) In terms of acne, it gets worse before it gets better. If your doctor has prescribed you retinoids for your acne and you've not been on them before, it is important to be aware that acne might get worse during the early stages. This does not mean the medication isn't working, it just means that the medication is purging the skin of all the nasties that lie beneath the surface of the skin. Be diligent, don't stop applying the retinoid and you'll soon see the benefits.
8) To cover, or not to cover. I don't tend to cover up my Retin-A side effects, because in the past I have tried to cover up peely skin with concealer/powder/foundation, and my skin balls up and it looks worse than going au naturel. Everyone has their preferences though, so if you can't bear to go bare-faced, then don't, but find something that works with you and your side-effects. Redness is slightly easier to cover up, but I think that if you treat the treated skin with the utmost care and gentleness, you're minimising irritation and so redness should fade quicker than if you're scrubbing and pouring paint-stripper-type-toner all over your face.
Tried-and-tested products (with reviews) that I always turn to when I'm actively using Retin-A:
Cetaphil Gentle Cleanser, Eucerin Aquaphor, Vichy Capital Sun SPF 50 Mattifying Face Fluid Dry Touch. Barefoot Botanicals Face and Body Rescue Cream.
This blogpost is made up from personal experiences with Retin-A and what I've been told by dermatological experts. Everyone's skin/reaction to retinoids is different, and always read the insert that comes included with medication and over-the-counter retinoids!
I am open to suggestions about products, so if you use retinoids and have a product that is great at treating the horrid side effects, let me know!
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